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2009-11-29 Chicagos Great Culinary Middle GroundChicagos Great Culinary Middle Ground For an atmosphere as quiet as Kumas is loud, head to Great Lake in Edgewater, on the far North Side. Lydia Esparza and Nick Lessins opened the place last year in a tiny space with a homey feel -- a mishmash of modern furniture, a few seats and a set of shelves where they sell an assortment of products they like, including wooden knitting needles. (Mrs. Esparza designed showrooms for Herman Miller before plunging into Great Lake; Mr. Lessins worked in consulting. ) Mrs. Esparza said that Mr. Lessins had been working on a pizza recipe at home for years and, at a certain point, the couple decided it was time to bring it to the people. The transition from unseasoned home cook to restaurant chef has, I contend, never gone as well for anyone as it has for Mr. Lessins. This summer, Alan Richman, the food writer for GQ, called the - TravelAdd Comment |
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